KEYSTONE TRAILS ASSOCIATION INTERNATIONAL HIKING TRIP
West Coast of Newfoundland
July 8 - 18, 2024
TRIP RECAP
Day 1 (Mon. 7/8/24):
We traveled from Philadelphia to Deer Lake, NL, via Montreal. Flights and airports were as painless as could be! After a yummy buffet dinner and orientation session, we're all ready for some ZZZs and excited to get hiking tomorrow.
Day 2 (Tues. 7/9/24):
On a hot and very humid day, we hiked the Lookout Trail from Gros Morne National Park Visitors Center. 3.5 miles, 1100' elevation. We were rewarded with fantastic views at the vista (with the ubiquitous Parks Canada Adirondack chairs) of Bonne Bay and Gros Morne Mountain. What a fantastic day, followed by great fellowship before, during, and after dinner.
Day 3 (Wed. 7/10/24):
Thankfully it was much cooler and overcast today, and the fog rolling through was neat. Today we hiked the Green Gardens Trail, 6.5 miles, 1200' elevation change. From the parking area, the trail winds through open peridotite (igneous rock) fields, then heads down long switchbacks to a bluff overlooking the ocean. According to Paul, the trail has undergone some considerable improvements- widening and drainage.
We saw moose scat, but no moose yet. The scenery was just amazing, especially after that first glimpse of the ocean came into view. Around each turn was something different, be it a view, waterfall, varied flora, etc. We walked down to Steve's Cove then turned around and headed down the somewhat challenging steps to the shore. The array of rounded igneous and metamorphic pebbles was quite colorful. On the return trip to the trailhead, we encountered many other hikers making the trek and were grateful to have gotten an early start and having the trail mostly to ourselves!
Some of today's flora: tuckamore (wind-stunted trees), Virginia rose, meadow rue, forget-me-nots, alders, sea thrift, Canadian bunchberry, and purple irises; and fauna: Virginia ctenucha moth and yellow warbler (seen), white-throated sparrow, Swainson's thrush, blackpoll warbler, and American redstart (heard).
Tomorrow we move a little more north, from the wonderful suites at Rooms at Woody Point to cottages at Rocky Harbor.
We saw moose scat, but no moose yet. The scenery was just amazing, especially after that first glimpse of the ocean came into view. Around each turn was something different, be it a view, waterfall, varied flora, etc. We walked down to Steve's Cove then turned around and headed down the somewhat challenging steps to the shore. The array of rounded igneous and metamorphic pebbles was quite colorful. On the return trip to the trailhead, we encountered many other hikers making the trek and were grateful to have gotten an early start and having the trail mostly to ourselves!
Some of today's flora: tuckamore (wind-stunted trees), Virginia rose, meadow rue, forget-me-nots, alders, sea thrift, Canadian bunchberry, and purple irises; and fauna: Virginia ctenucha moth and yellow warbler (seen), white-throated sparrow, Swainson's thrush, blackpoll warbler, and American redstart (heard).
Tomorrow we move a little more north, from the wonderful suites at Rooms at Woody Point to cottages at Rocky Harbor.
Day 4 (Thurs. 7/11/24):
Hot and humid conditions, along with some muddy and overgrown stretches, contributed to a more challenging hike. We hiked the Trout River Pond Trail, ~9 miles, 750' elevation change. From shaded boreal forest to larch and white pine serpentine barrens to a panoramic view of Trout River Pond, the scenery was quite varied.
Some of today's flora: pearly everlasting, dwarf raspberry, and one hiker spied another carnivorous plant: sundew! Fauna: one frog, common yellowthroat (seen), white-throated sparrow, Swainson's thrush, blackpoll warbler, and American redstart (heard).
But, wait- there's more! What tourist trip to Newfoundland would be complete without being Screeched? Not ours! After dinner, our intrepid KTA hikers reveled at the Kitchen Party, singing along and telling stories, then participated in a Screeching-in Ceremony. After repeating some unique and hilarious oaths, slinging back a shot of Screech (rum), and kissing a cod (turned out to be a caplin), they are all honorary Newfoundlanders!!
Some of today's flora: pearly everlasting, dwarf raspberry, and one hiker spied another carnivorous plant: sundew! Fauna: one frog, common yellowthroat (seen), white-throated sparrow, Swainson's thrush, blackpoll warbler, and American redstart (heard).
But, wait- there's more! What tourist trip to Newfoundland would be complete without being Screeched? Not ours! After dinner, our intrepid KTA hikers reveled at the Kitchen Party, singing along and telling stories, then participated in a Screeching-in Ceremony. After repeating some unique and hilarious oaths, slinging back a shot of Screech (rum), and kissing a cod (turned out to be a caplin), they are all honorary Newfoundlanders!!
Day 5 (Fri. 7/12/24):
Today, again, was hotter than we thought it would be in Newfoundland (but not as hot as in PA!). We hiked Bakers Brook Falls Trail, ~6.8 miles, 400' elevation. From the exceptional book by M. Burzynski that I got at Gros Morne National Park visitors centre: "The trail passes through a fen with orchids and other wildflowers, then enters boreal forest, crosses bogs and then leads through large areas of balsam fir forest killed by hemlock looper." Paul led us down a short spur to a moose exclosure. Then we headed towards the river to three fantastic falls!
Some of today's flora: lady's slipper, fireweed, Canadian bunchberry, cow parsnip. Still no moose sightings, but the birds were serenading us the whole hike: white throated sparrow (spotted), hermit thrush, mourning warbler, and black capped chickadee (heard).
After doing some laundry in town, we rested up for the upcoming big hike on Saturday!
Some of today's flora: lady's slipper, fireweed, Canadian bunchberry, cow parsnip. Still no moose sightings, but the birds were serenading us the whole hike: white throated sparrow (spotted), hermit thrush, mourning warbler, and black capped chickadee (heard).
After doing some laundry in town, we rested up for the upcoming big hike on Saturday!
Day 6 (Sat. 7/13/24):
Today was the day. The day of the LONG, CHALLENGING hike: Gros Morne Mountain. From Paul's description: "10.5-mile loop with a 2600-foot climb, rated very challenging. For experienced and fit hikers only, this rugged hike is one of the most popular hiking destinations in Canada, offering stunning views of the Long Range Mountains and the Ten Mile Pond Gorge. The first three miles of trail wind through boreal forest to the base of the mountain (3 hikers did this portion and headed back to the trailhead). After this trail intersection, we begin the steep, rocky ascent to the top with its arctic-alpine landscape."
Our 10 intrepid hikers measured more like 11.5 miles on their devices, and definitely agree with the "challenging" description. The steep scree slopes added to the fun. Some described it as the hardest hike they've done. I'm sure all will remember this experience for a long time!
Our 10 intrepid hikers measured more like 11.5 miles on their devices, and definitely agree with the "challenging" description. The steep scree slopes added to the fun. Some described it as the hardest hike they've done. I'm sure all will remember this experience for a long time!
Day 7 (Sun. 7/14/24):
Western Brook Pond Trail and Tour: Our hike today was MUCH easier than yesterday. We walked down a gravel path less than two miles to board a tour boat. We then spent two entertaining, amazing hours traveling the length of the 10-mile lake. There were 200-foot tall waterfalls, glacial features, and massive billion-years-old sheer cliffs. In Newfoundland, most all freshwater bodies of water are called ponds, even this 16 km lake. And it is not a fjord since it is no longer connected to the ocean.
After walking back to the trailhead, we headed farther north, stopping at Arches Provincial Park along the way. We had our first encounter with rain, and it was during the drive. We have been so lucky with the weather!
We finally spotted some moose on the drive! Yay! Also, no cell service or wifi from about 3pm today till Wednesday morning. We're headed to Quirpon Island.
After walking back to the trailhead, we headed farther north, stopping at Arches Provincial Park along the way. We had our first encounter with rain, and it was during the drive. We have been so lucky with the weather!
We finally spotted some moose on the drive! Yay! Also, no cell service or wifi from about 3pm today till Wednesday morning. We're headed to Quirpon Island.
Day 8 (Mon. 7/15/24):
After a stay at an interesting school-turned-into-inn, we motored farther north up the Viking Trail (Rt. 430). We saw more moose!! Before lunch we wandered around the L'Anse Aux Meadows visitors centre, then hiked the 1.5-mile Birchy Nuddick Trail around the site. Lots of neat history at the first Viking encampment here.
Then we headed to the jetty to meet our ride to Quirpon Island. What an exhilarating ride aboard the zodiac raft! The Quirpon Island Lighthouse is such a special experience, with fantastic home-cooked meals. It turns out we do have light cell service here.
Then we headed to the jetty to meet our ride to Quirpon Island. What an exhilarating ride aboard the zodiac raft! The Quirpon Island Lighthouse is such a special experience, with fantastic home-cooked meals. It turns out we do have light cell service here.
Day 9 (Tues. 7/16/24):
The Quirpon Island Lighthouse Inn is such a unique experience! The staff pointed out dolphins after dinner our first night. Others spotted humpback whales. Most of the crew did a hike of just over 2 miles around the island this morning, in the blustery, foggy mist. With the weather, we nixed the zodiac tour looking for icebergs and whales.
Of course, then the wind died down and it became much more pleasant. Some wandered around the neat coves, some grabbed binoculars and scanned the ocean blue.
After one more night of conviviality, including an awesome guitar-accompanied sing-along, we head back south tomorrow.
Of course, then the wind died down and it became much more pleasant. Some wandered around the neat coves, some grabbed binoculars and scanned the ocean blue.
After one more night of conviviality, including an awesome guitar-accompanied sing-along, we head back south tomorrow.
Day 10 & 11 (Wed. 7/17 and Thurs. 7/18/24/24):
Wednesday morning, we hopped on the Zodiac raft to head back to the mainland. We were hoping for an extended ride around the island since our whale/iceberg tour was canceled yesterday, but the seas were too choppy to be comfortable (Paul almost ended up in the drink!). We were treated to some man o' war jellyfish sightings at the dock.
We had a long drive down the coast. Unfortunately, we didn't spy any more wildlife (perhaps because some of us were snoozing). However, Welles regaled us with his observations over the span of our trip: based on his perceptions, we each ended up with a new nickname. These include: Papa Paul, Canonman Ken, Tricky Vick, Lonesome Dave, Awesome Al, Crazy Jane, Give 'em Hell Ellen, and Juicy Jenn. We dubbed Welles either Deep Welles or Wise Welles. What fun! Also, Welles is extremely close to publishing a book he wrote, and we get dibs on autographed copies. We ran out of time and did not get to our scheduled hike on Burnt Hill and Neddy Hill.
Thursday brought a loooong day spent in airports. The flights were very good, but the waiting, not so much. After we (most of us; sorry Lonesome Dave) grabbed our checked bags we said our farewells for now and dispersed to our homes across PA. We all agreed that the people, as much as the hiking, made this a most enjoyable trip!
With the conclusion of this trip, we say a very fond farewell to our fearless trip leader, Paul Shaw. Since 2012, Paul has selflessly volunteered his time and effort to research, scout, book, and lead these trips, introducing new hikers to KTA, and generating over $100k for KTA. Paul has literally left huge shoes to fill.
If you think an international hiking trip sounds like a grand time, check out our next trip to the Virgin Islands in January, led by our Executive Director, Brook. Lottery entries begin August 1st! Check out our website for more info: https://www.kta-hike.org/events.html
We had a long drive down the coast. Unfortunately, we didn't spy any more wildlife (perhaps because some of us were snoozing). However, Welles regaled us with his observations over the span of our trip: based on his perceptions, we each ended up with a new nickname. These include: Papa Paul, Canonman Ken, Tricky Vick, Lonesome Dave, Awesome Al, Crazy Jane, Give 'em Hell Ellen, and Juicy Jenn. We dubbed Welles either Deep Welles or Wise Welles. What fun! Also, Welles is extremely close to publishing a book he wrote, and we get dibs on autographed copies. We ran out of time and did not get to our scheduled hike on Burnt Hill and Neddy Hill.
Thursday brought a loooong day spent in airports. The flights were very good, but the waiting, not so much. After we (most of us; sorry Lonesome Dave) grabbed our checked bags we said our farewells for now and dispersed to our homes across PA. We all agreed that the people, as much as the hiking, made this a most enjoyable trip!
With the conclusion of this trip, we say a very fond farewell to our fearless trip leader, Paul Shaw. Since 2012, Paul has selflessly volunteered his time and effort to research, scout, book, and lead these trips, introducing new hikers to KTA, and generating over $100k for KTA. Paul has literally left huge shoes to fill.
If you think an international hiking trip sounds like a grand time, check out our next trip to the Virgin Islands in January, led by our Executive Director, Brook. Lottery entries begin August 1st! Check out our website for more info: https://www.kta-hike.org/events.html
The trip organizer and guide is Paul Shaw, former KTA Executive Director and Board President, and former owner of Treks & Trails International. Paul has led 40+ hiking trips to Europe, and North and South America. Previous KTA trips led by Paul include Ireland, Iceland, Mexico, the U.S. Virgin Islands, the east coast of Newfoundland, Andorra/Barcelona, and Wales.
This is a fundraising hiking trip with all net proceeds benefitting Keystone Trails Association.
This is a fundraising hiking trip with all net proceeds benefitting Keystone Trails Association.